In early 2022, we spent over two months in Tucson, Arizona. Yes, we were officially SNOWBIRDS escaping from the harsh Missouri winters for the first time.  While we did a lot of the touristy things, our extended stay gave us the ability to experience the city in quite a bit of detail.

First, undeerstand that this list is not exhaustive. There’s A LOT to do in the Tuscon area, especially if you have the time. However, here’s the top things we would recommend if you have just a few days in the area.  

#1: Visit the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Check any Tucson “top things” list, and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum will be at or near the top.  It is currently ranked #1 on Tripadvisor, and there is a good reason for that.  We planned on spending a morning there, but there was enough to do that it was close to 5.5 hours.

Should you go? The answer is YES! YES! YES!

I was amazed at the diversity of the plant and animal life in the Sonoran Desert, and I think you will be too!

Check out our video on the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum to get a feel for the cool stuff you might see during a visit.

#2: Take the Scenic Drive Up Mount Lemmon

Mount Lemmon, just northeast of Tucson, is the highest point in the Santa Catalina Mountains.  One of the Sky Islands in Coronado National Forest, the mountain is a favorite of hikers, bikers, skiers, and folks who just like a scenic drive.  

The Catalina Highway a/k/a Sky Island Scenic Byway took us from desert to pine forests in stretch of only 25 miles!   The University of Arizona produced a MUST-LISTEN Mount Lemmon Science Tour mobile app that we enjoyed along the way.  We learned about how the Sonoran Desert, rock formations, life zones, water, the forest, and fire are all connected.  

The drive begins in the Sonoran Desert where the towering thorny plants known as the Saguaro cactus are abundant.  These are nothing like the cartoonish images I had envisioned.  As we went higher (about 3500 feet), they thin out because they cannot survive the temperature. 

The landscape gradually turns to rock. Plate tectonics formed the “basin and range” formations, which the mobile app explains just as good as any high school geology teacher.  Remember learning about sedimentary, igneous, and metamorphic rocks?  This drive makes all of that science come alive!

The drive features four distinct life zones created by the elevation changes: desert, grassland, woodland, and forest.  As a result of the water and temperature changes, there is more biodiversity in this region that anywhere else in the United States!  It is like driving from Mexico to Canada in just 25 miles.  The mobile app showcases some of the University of Arizona ecologists, geologists, and other scientists and their discoveries. 

Windy Point Vista is a MUST-STOP on the drive.  There’s a decent parking lot, as well as restroom facilities.   We walked along the rock wall, but also ventured out on the hoodoos and other rock formations for about a half-hour.  Aside from the amazing views, we enjoyed watching several rock climbers. 

Gradually, we started seeing pine trees mixed into the scenery.   And then ultimately snow as we drove towards the “town” of Summerhaven.   The road to the very top of Mount Lemmon was still closed for the winter during our drive (rookie mistake: the road opened the next day so be sure and check closures before doing the drive).  Still, we could envision thriving ski and tourist area near this part of the mountain.

On the way down the mountain, we learned about the importance of fire in replenishing the forest, and the study of tree rings to learn about the life cycle of the forest and its climate changes.  

Throughout the drive, we had to watch out for cyclists.  While we are avid bikers, Mount Lemmon would be way too hard for us and is better left to pro cycling teams and ambitious local riders who know the route.  Remember to share the road. 

#3: Bike Around Tucson

Although we did not bike up to Mount Lemmon, we did bike and walk various parts of the The Loop. The Loop is a 131-mile system of muti-use paved trails around the city.  We rode a good chunk of it during our stay.  We stayed at Tra-Tel RV Park, which was right next to The Loop on the west side of town. For more info on Tra-Tel, check out our blog on Tra-Tel.

The Loop is next to the Santa Cruz River, Rillito River, and Pantano Wash.  However, during our stay, the river beds were all dry except for a small section not too far from Christopher Columbus park.  Moreover, many of the river beds, especially those near our RV park, were littered with trash – everything from mattresses to shopping carts.   

My favorite ride was a spur just off The Loop.  After heading north from the Tra-Tel RV Park, we caught the Canada de Oro River Park spur that leads northeast to the entrance of Catalina State Park and scenic views of the Santa Catalina mountains.  That route took us by a couple of golf courses as well.  Our ride was about 32-miles total and a good work-out.        

Our ride south from Tra-Tel RV park was less appealing.  Toward downtown, there is a substantial homeless encampment along the trail.  After a bike accident trying to avoid a homeless person on a ride in Colorado, I’m try to avoid those areas if possible.  The Loop does have great views of Sentinel Peak (the “A” mountain) just south of downtown though.

The Loop is also popular with walkers. About a mile or so north of the Tra-Tel RV park is Sweetwater Wetlands area. We were exploring it one day on the dirt trail and saw birds, turtles, and even a bobcat!

#4: Walk the University of Arizona Campus (and #4A: Catch a Game)

Tucson is a huge city, but the University of Arizona still makes this feel like a small college town…in a good way.   We spent some time just strolling around the beautiful campus, learning the meaning of Bear Down, and hitting a couple of the breweries within walking distance of the campus: Address Brewing (order the pizza and garlic knots) and Gentle Ben's Brewing (enjoy the patio). While we were exploring the Krutch Arboretum on the University’s main thoroughfare, the University’s fight song came started playing. We didn’t know the words, but hummed along anyway.

For the record (that’s fancy lawyer talk), I used to despise the University of Arizona.   In 1996-97, the University of Kansas, my alma mater, had what I think is the starting-five best basketball team in its history: (1) Jerod Haase (guard), (2) Raef LaFrentz (forward/center), (3) Paul Pierce (forward), (4) Scot Pollard (center), (5) Jacque Vaughn (guard).   KU was ranked #1 in the nation most of the season, but lost to the University of Arizona in the Sweet 16.   The Wildcats went on to win the NCAA tournament, but I was devasted.  And. I. Hated. Arizona.

Fast forward about 25 years, and I’ve finally let my grudge go.  That is in part because my favorite sport nowadays is no longer men’s college basketball, but is instead women’s college softball.   Like southern and coastal teams who enjoy year-round warm weather, the University of Arizona is a perennial softball powerhouse.   So, why not spend a gorgeous Saturday evening watching the Arizona Wildcats host the #16-ranked Kentucky Wildcats.   Who did I cheer for? The Wildcats!  If you are wondering, the Wildcats won. 😊

If you’ve never been to a college softball game between some of the elite schools (the SEC, along with the Arizona, California, Oklahoma, and Florida teams dominate most rankings), make a point to do so.  They are better than most MLB games – cheaper seats, faster pace, and outstanding play.   The pitchers often pitch multiple games on weekend tournaments – so their arms are in top shape. Many games feature long bombs, bunts, steals, and the occasional “slapper.”  At most stadiums, there’s reasonably priced food and beer as well.  

#5: Drive or Hike to Sentinel Peak (the “A” Hill) for the Views

Sentinel Peak is often referred to as the “A” hill or mountain because of the 160-foot basalt rock “A” on the mountain’s east side near the summit.  Inspired by the University of Arizona’s 1915 football victory over Pomona State, a civil engineering student decided to create the “A.”   After raising the necessary funds to purchase the mortar and whitewash, around 75-100 students worked on the project, and it was official dedicated on March 4, 2016.   The “A” was maintained by the University’s Sophos and Spurs Honorary Society, but today the City’s Parks & Rec department oversees it.

The “A” has traditionally been painted white, but it has also been black (to protest the Iraq war ), red/white/blue (to honor the troops), green (to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day), and blue (to honor covid-19 healthcare workers)

Sentinel Peak has significance beyond the University though.   When the Spaniards arrived in the 17th century, the Hohokam had vanished and settlements of Piman people dotted the valley.   The name "Tucson" is likely derived from the Piman “styuk-son” meaning a dark or brown spring or the Papago word “styuk” for black “and “son” for foot or base of a hill.   The hill was a lookout for these early Indian and Spanish settlers who lived in fear of hostile raiders.

Sentinel Peak has two parking lots:  one near the base of the mountain and another near the summit.   A 1.7-mile paved road basically connects the two parking lots and then circles the mountain in a loop.   I’ve read online that the parking lots get pretty full, but we never had a problem parking. On Mondays, the road is closed to vehicular traffic so that is the best day to go for a hike.   The path provides spectacular views of downtown and up-close views of the “A.” 

On the east side of Sentinel Peak, a small network of unpaved trails leads visitors directly to the “A” itself and to the true peak summit.  We encountered lots of glass shards in that area so be sure and wear good shoes if you want to get off the paved road and climb a little higher.  

A short trail westward leads to a covered pavilion where with views of the beautiful Tucson Mountains and the Santa Rita Mountains. Many people like to visit Sentinel Peak during the dawn and dusk hours to catch the sun rising and falling over the mountain ranges.

We saw hikers, bikers, and dog walkers taking the road to Sentinel Peak. It’s a decent work-out, but I would rate it as “easy” because of the paved road and the mild inclines. And, of course, many people just drive to Sentinel Peak rather than hike it.

On our way down Sentinel Peak, we could see some other hikers on a paved in the distance.  That turned out to be Tumamoc Hill.   For folks looking for a work-out, look no further than Tumamoc Hill.

#6: See a Saguaro Cactus (or 1000s of them) at Saguaro National Park

As a mid-westerner, I didn’t really ever think that the desert landscape could be pretty.  I changed my mind once I visited Saguaro National Park.  The park is named after the saguaro (pronounced suh·waa·row) -- the nation’s largest cactus and one of the slowest growing plants.  The first arm usually doesn’t start growing until the cactus is 50-70 years old!  

Parts of the park have been federally protected since the 1930s, but the national park was not established until 1994.  Today, Saguaro National Park is split into the western Tucson Mountain district and the easter Rincon district such that the park flanks Tucson on each side.   

Each side of the park features a short drivable loop that visitors can traverse in just a couple of ours.   The unpaved 6-mile Scenic Bajada Loop Drive (which includes Hohokam Road and Golden Gate Road) is on the west side while paved 8-mile Cactus Forest Scenic Loop Drive is on the east side.  There are numerous hiking trails that can be accessed from these loops. There are also numerous trails outside of the national park, like the Bowen House Trail, where the saguaros are just as plentiful.  

#7: Get a Work-Out on Tumamoc Hill

Tumamoc Hill is the ultimate urban hiking trail.   We hiked it about a half dozen times during our two-month stay in Tucson, Arizona.  That is saying something because when we visit new cities, it’s rare that we do things multiple times.

If you are in the Tuscon area and want a workout, we highly recommend Tumamoc Hill.

BUT before you go, here’s what you need to know. 

#7a: Tumamoc Hill an INTENSE Work-Out.

Located just across from St. Mary’s Hospital on the west side of Tucson, Tumamoc Hill is a 700+ foot climb on a paved trail includes grades up to 18%.  The trail is about 1.6 miles up (about 3.2 miles total), and we huffed and puffed and huffed our way to the top. 

The first few switch-backs were easier than the rest.   The grade got higher the higher we went. The number of hikers thinned out a little with the climb as well.

Our first time out, the hike took us about 1.5 hours (both up and down), mostly because we were taking photos along the way.  Our fastest time was a little under an hour.

People with all sorts of fitness levels and ages on the trail. We only saw a couple of folks trying to run up Tumamoc Hill though.   Based on my Google search, a triathlete from Colorado named Ben Hoffman completed the hike to the top in just 10 minutes and 49 seconds!  
Pro tip: Going down is easier than going up :-).

#7b: Tumamoc Hill Has Amazing Views.

Just a few hundred yards into the hike, we started having amazing views of the city and surrounding mountains.  Of course, the best views are at the summit.  We could see the Santa Ritas to the south, Rincons to the east, and the Santa Catalinas to the northeast, and the Torolitas to the north.  Next to Tumamoc Hill is Sentinel Peak, more popularly known as the “A” Mountain, and we could see hikers doing that climb as well. 

The up-close views of Tumamoc Hill are spectacular as well.   Along the path, we encountered clusters of Saguaro cactus, barrel and prickly pear cactus, palo verde trees, creosote bushes, ocotillo, and other colorful vegetation growing near jagged lava boulders. We also spotted mule deer, lizards, and road runners on a few of our hikes.

#7c: You will learn something at Tumamoc Hill.

Tumamoc Hill is owned by the University of Arizona, and the road provides access to the University’s Desert Laboratory.  Research as been going on there for over a century.  In addition, Steward Observatory maintains a small telescope near the summit.  None of those buildings are open to the public though.

About a dozen placards in both English and Spanish describe some of the animals that call the trail home – Sonoran bumblebees, phainopepla, coyotes, javalinas, black-tailed rattlesnakes, canyon wrens, and regal horned lizards.  The latter is the hill’s namesake as one sign explains:

“Before there was a Tucson someone looked out over this landscape and saw the mesa on which you now walk.  It was flattened against the earth like a giant horned lizard.  And so our hill was named Tumamoc – regal horned lizard in the language of the Tohono O’odam.”

For those (like me) who want to take a deeper dive about Tumamoc Hill, the University has a very informative historical timeline and audio tour on its website.  The tour is also available for download to your phone.

Even better, on one Saturday hike, we met up with a Tumamoc Hill steward who was able to answer lots of question about Tumamoc Hill. I think if I lived in the area, that would be a great volunteer activity to do.

Of note, the University is planning to make create Tumamoc Gardens near the base of the hill. The design is supposed to be a “resilience” garden that will include hands-on participation in how to live in the desert in a hotter and drier future. The next time we are back in the Tuscon area, I definitely want to see what progress has been made on the new garden.

#7d: Tumamoc Hill is Busy.

Open from 4 am to 10 pm, the trail was well-utilized during our visits.  We hiked Tumamoc Hill at various times – early morning, late afternoon, cloudy day, weekdays, and weekends.  While there were certainly busier times, we encountered a lot of people each time.  The trail is long enough that there is usually pretty good separation between hikers, even on the busier weekends.   We never felt like there were too many people on the trail.

The hike is a favorite of the locals and tourists.  On the weekends, we saw volunteers gathering signatures for local ballot initiatives, vendors selling walking sticks and water, and tents featuring local artists. 

#7e: What to Bring and What NOT to Bring to Tumamoc Hill. 

Tumamoc Hill is designated for walkers (and the occasional runners), although authorized vehicles affiliated with the University of Arizona may use the road. We saw only two vehicles on the road during our hikes.  

Dogs, skateboards, and bikes are not permitted. 

We encountered a few brave hikers with strollers too.   Pushing a stroller up the hill is an achievement itself, but I think that holding on to a stroller going DOWN is more technically challenging.

I recommend that bringing:  

• Comfortable shoes with good treads.   There are some downhill parts where I was thankful for good shoe treads to stop some of my momentum.  Some folks zig-zag the steep parts on the way down slow down their momentum. 

• Water bottle.  There’s a water refilling station at the mid-point of the hike.   

• Camera.  While most people use just their phones, we brought our camcorder one day so that we could zoom in on our RV park and other Tucson landmarks.  Drones are not permitted unless approved by the University of Arizona in accordance with its policies.     

#7f: Parking is a Challenge at Tumamoc Hill.

Parking is sometimes challenging because Tumamoc Hill is so popular.   There is a parking lot just east of the trail entrance, but it is hard to find a spot there.   Most people just park along Anklam Road, and visitors may need to hike several blocks before getting to the base of Tumamoc Hill.   Hikers should NOT park in the parking lots of Saint Mary's Hospital or the medical offices along Anklam Road because those are for hospital employees and hospital visitors. 

Parking may be a pain, but at least for us, the whole point of Tumamoc Hill was great exercise with amazing views.  Just think of the walk to and from the car as the warm-up and cool-down.

We FINALLY Think We Know How to Pronounce “Tumamoc.”

Ta-MOM-ock. Too-MAM-ick. Tuma-Mock. Tuh-mah-OC. Hmmmm.

We vote for Too-Ma-MOCK. What do you think?

#8: Visit the Ignite Sign Art Museum

Although Ignite Sign Art Museum just opened a few years ago, this was one of our favorite stops in Tucson.   Neon signs were once ubiquitous in Tucson, but many have seen better days.  The museum’s sign will transport you back in time, especially if you are a local and remember some of the now defunct business associated with the signs.   The background stories on some of the signs (and how they were rescued) are a true delight. For example, he museum had to wait on some nesting pigeons before one art deco sign could be rescued.

 While main attraction are the neon signs, the museum contains a vast array of general advertising signs as well, including beer. So yep, we liked that part of the museum as well.

 Lastly, during our visit, we were lucky to spend about 20 minutes watching a neon sign maker bend a tube of glass for a sign, and explain how the neon signs actually work.  That was my favorite part of the tour, and well worth the $12/person admission.  

#9: Cheers at One of Tucson’s Craft Breweries.

While in Tucson, we visited FIFTEEN craft breweries. You won’t go wrong at any of them. Kasie’s favorite was Crooked Tooth and my favorite was Pueblo Vida Brewing.

#10: Spend a LITTLE time at the Mini Time Machine Museum of Miniatures

Despite the museum’s moniker, the diversity of the collection in the Mini Time Machine Museum of Miniatures is quite LARGE.   The permanent collections range from doll houses made hundreds of years ago to lifelike “room boxes” to a wall of “pocket dragons” to a creepy Kewpie doll collections.  During our visit, we marveled at the little green men of the Army Man project, the Adams Family house, carvings on the tips of lead pencils, and even a scene in the middle of an egg.  There was also a scavenger hunt to find tiny fairies located in some of the exhibits. 

The museum is one of those places that someone can visit on multiple occasions. There were some exhibits that were so detailed that we could have spent a half our or so just looking at a single exhibit.

Plan to spend a couple of hours in the museum, at least.   We made the mistake of visiting on a morning that a busload of kids were visiting from a local school.   You might want to call ahead and see if any group kid tours are scheduled because that detracted from our experience.   

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