Thinking of visiting Zion National Park?   The most famous hikes are probably Angels Landing and The Narrows.  However, the 5.4 mile hike to and from Angels Landing requires (1) a much-sought-after permit and (2) nerves of steel to make the crazy climb.  As for The Narrows, it’s basically a long and VERY WET walk in the Virgin River bed, and the hike is often closed because of flooding or risky because of toxic cyanobacteria bloom. 

Luckily, there are plenty of other cool things to see and do in Zion National Park!   We visited the park on several days during our five-week stay in the area, and here’s our top things to do (and not do) when visiting Zion National Park. 

Our Top Things to Do in Zion National Park (other than Angels Landing and The Narrows)

1. Drive Through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel.

Vehicles are not allowed on most of the roads in Zion National Park.   The one exception is the scenic drive along the Zion-Mount Carmel highway, which includes a 1.1-mile tunnel constructed in 1930.   The tunnel features a series of windows and openings called "galleries," which provide short glimpses of the surrounding canyon and cliffs.  The windows also serve as an outlet for vehicle exhaust because the tunnel has no ventilation system.  It’s a remarkable feat of engineering!

When traveling through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, there are a few important considerations to keep in mind:

1. No stopping.   Not even for photos.   Let me say this again.  YOU CANNOT STOP IN THE TUNNEL!

2. Vehicle Restrictions.  The tunnel has specific vehicle restrictions due to its size. Vehicles longer than 40 feet (12.2 meters) or taller than 13.5 feet (4.1 meters) are not permitted to pass through. This limitation is necessary because the tunnel has narrow sections and tight curves.

3. Traffic Control. Due to the tunnel's narrowness, a traffic control system is in place to ensure safe passage. During our visit, vehicles were only permitted to travel through the tunnel in one direction at a time. This involves alternating traffic flow controlled at each end of the tunnel.

4. Oversized Vehicles (like RVs). If you are traveling with a large RV or a vehicle that exceeds the size restrictions, you may need to obtain a special permit from the National Park Service to travel through the tunnel. These permits are limited in number and issued on a first-come, first-served basis.

It's important to note that the tunnel is closed to bicycle and pedestrian traffic. Cyclists and pedestrians are required to take an alternate route through the park.

The tunnel is just part of the scenic drive on the Highway 9 and it’s worth going another 5 miles or so.  The distinctive Checkerboard Mesa near the east entrance to Zion National Park is a good turn-around point. 

2.       Take the Zion Shuttle Bus to the End (Stop #9).

To get around most of Zion National Park, you have to take one of the shuttle buses.  Luckily, the shuttle buses operate on a regular schedule throughout the day, and we never had to wait in line more than 10 minutes for a shuttle.

Here’s what you need to know:  THE SHUTTLE RIDE CAN BE PRETTY AWESOME!   Here are some tips for getting the most out of the Zion shuttle bus ride:

1. Go early.  We had the shuttle bus almost to ourselves on a weekday in May before 7:30 am.   By 10 am, most of the shuttle buses are packed. 

2. Snag a window seat.  Some of the windows open, and the fresh cool morning air is simply wonderful.  

3. Face West. Try to sit on the side of the shuttle bus that faces west.  The Virgin River flows adjacent to the shuttle route on the west side, and in the morning the sunlight will strike that side of the canyon.  

4. Listen. An audio tour plays during the shuttle bus ride.  The speakers will cover a little bit about the history of the national park, recent flooding disasters, and prominent landmarks.

5. Be Patient. The scenic ride from the Zion Visitors Center (Stop #1) to the Temple of Sinawava (Stop #9) only takes about 40 minutes.  Be patient and enjoy the ride.

3.     Hike the Canyon Overlook Trail (My Favorite Hike)

There are plenty of hikes in Zion National Park along the shuttle bus stops.    My favorite hike was not on the bus route but was instead the Canyon Overlook Trail.   The trailhead lies just east of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel.  The Canyon Overlook Trail is a 1.0-mile out-and-back hike with 163 feet of elevation gain that is considered “moderate” according to the National Parks Service.  

The hike starts with some stairs, but pretty soon you will encouter some of the numerous handrails on the trail. About 3/4 of the way in, a short plank bridge leads to a cave-like area that is a great photo op.    Yet, the view at the end is what makes the Canyon Overlook hike spectacular.  You can see Pine Creek Canyon, Bridge Mountain, the West Temple, the Alter of Sacrifice, the Streaked Wall, and the Temple from the vantage.  Hikers also get a birds-eye view of the switchback roads leading to the Zion Mount Carmel tunnel, as well as quick looks at the vehicles traversing the tunnel through a couple of the galleries.    Last but not least, hikers can probably make friends couple of rock squirrels near the overlook. 

What is the downside to the Canyon Overlook Trail? Parking.  There’s a very small parking lot is immediately past the exit of the tunnel. Most people park along the Highway 9 at various points.   That may add a 1/4-1/2 mile to your overall hike. 

4.   Or, Hike the Riverside Walk Trail.

The Riverside Walk trail begins at the Temple of Sinawava (Stop #9), which is the last stop on the park's shuttle system. From there, the trail meanders along the Virgin River for approximately 2.2 miles (3.5 kilometers) round trip. The trail is paved and relatively flat, making it suitable for visitors of all ages and abilities.  The trail leads to The Narrows so you can get a taste of what that hike would be like without getting wet or worrying about toxic cyanobacteria.   The canyon walls provide shade and help keep the trail cool, even during hot summer months. The lush vegetation along the trail adds to its natural beauty, with hanging gardens and wildflowers adding bursts of color to the landscape.  The Riverside Walk trail was my second favorite hike in Zion National Park.

Things to Skip in Zion National Park

If you have limited time to visit Zion National Park, I’d recommend skipping a few things. 

1. The Visitors Center.  While visitors have to board the shuttle buses near the Visitor’s Center, there’s no real need to go inside.   The displays and information about the park are pretty minimal, and the need-to-know information is available on one of the park brochures or the NPS mobile app.

2. The Human History Museum (Stop #2).    There are some old school displays about the geology, plants, and people who lived in Zion National Park, but overall, the museum is just plain boring.  There’s nothing interactive and the exhibits need a refresh.

Concluding Thoughts on Zion National Park

 Sure, Angels Landing and The Narrows get most of the attention. BUT, there’s a lot of other great things to do in Zion National Park. If you are on limited time (like you only have a day to explore the park), our recommendations are (1) driving Highway 9 through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, (2) enjoying the ENTIRE shuttle bus route from Stop #1 to Stop #9, and (3) hiking one of the scenic trails (like the Canyon Overlook Trail or the River Walk Trail).