Lawrence KS — Biking, Beer, and Basketball

I wrote this song and blog after a trip to Lawrence in 2020, and then added some of the video footage after another trip to Lawrence in 2023.

When:  Thursday, June 25, 2020 to Sunday, June 28, 2020 (three nights)
Where:  Clinton Lake Corp of Engineers, Bloomington East, Walnut Campground (site 289)
Cost:  $20/night for water and electric
Biking:   Lawrence Loop; Burroughs Creek Trail
Beer Rankings:   (1) Free State Brewing, (2) Lawrence Beer Company (two locations), (3) Fields and Ivy, (4) 23rd Street Brewery, (5) Black Stag Brewery
Bucket Lists:   KU Hall of Athletics/DeBruce Center; Walk down Massachusetts Avenue

In my opinion, the best town in Kansas to live or visit is Lawrence, Kansas***.   This “free state” town is rich in history, basketball tradition, good beer, and biking.  The downtown area (usually referred to as “Mass” to reflect the abbreviation for the street of the same name) is a vibrant mix of unique retail stores, restaurants, and housing.   Lawrence is also just a 40-minute drive to Kansas City.  Not surprisingly I’ve known several people who live in Lawrence but do that commute every day.  

It is easy to love Lawrence, Kansas. Love = 6 feet = love.

I had the good fortune to live in Lawrence for four years – three for law school and a bonus year for a federal clerkship.   After graduating, I would go back to Lawrence every few years, usually for a law school event that my law firm was sponsoring.  I was even an adjunct professor for the patent law class one semester when the “real” professor was on sabbatical.    The city keeps sprawling each year, but a lot of the charm and character is the same.  

Since moving to mid-Missouri 7+ years ago, my trips to Lawrence soon ended.  In the summer of 2020, I wanted to few days there in the RV so that I could re-explore the town.  Things were just starting to open up from the covid-19 lockdown, but we still felt like we could make the trip in a responsible way.   Our plan was to bike and visit breweries if they had an outdoor patio, which all seemed (and was) very low risk.  

Clinton Lake COE

We opted stay at the Clinton Lake Corp of Engineers campground, which was conducive to social distancing.   As with nearly all COEs, this one was very nice, well-maintained, with large sites.  The campground, however, was located nearly 20 minutes by car from the closest biking trailhead to the Lawrence Loop.  It’s yet another 5 minutes by car to part of town.   Thus, for exploring the city of Lawrence, it may make more sense to stay in an RV park in town.  However, we were happy to stay at the COE, which made for easier social distancing.

Biking – The Lawrence Loop

Lawrence is in the process of completing a 22-mile paved trail around the city called the Lawrence Loop.  On the northeast side of Clinton Lake is Overlook Park, which provides trail access.  Thus, we parked our car there, and headed eastward.   The southern part of the loop contains mostly prairie-like and natural landscape but the path occasionally meanders through residential neighborhoods and crosses K-10 a couple of times.  Around Haskell Avenue, the loop starts northward and ultimately becomes the Haskell Rail Trail, which then turns into the Burroughs Creek Trail.    The latter runs all 20+ block north to the east side of downtown Lawrence.  

Speaking of routes, I grew up near the Pony Express trail in north central Kansas, and so I’ve always had an interest in old trail routes that our ancestors used.   Our Lawrence Loop bike route took us over the Oregon Trail a couple of times.  Lawrence is situated between the Santa Fe and Oregon Trails and so if you are history buff, there is lots to do in the area. 

For me, the most interesting piece of Lawrence’s history is the key role it played in the abolitionist movement.  I grew up hearing stories from my Kansas-born-and-raised dad about Quantrill’s raid on Lawrence (a/k/a the Lawrence Massacre), John Brown, and “Bleeding Kansas,” and the border war with Missouri.   He would talk about Lawrence’s role as the “Free State Capital”, in which anti-slavery Jayhawkers from Kansas battled pro-slavery Bushwhackers from Missouri.   According to my father, we were supposed to hate Missouri (especially the University of Missouri in sports).  He still despises Missouri to this day.    

Beer (Craft Breweries)

Free State Brewing is a beer institution.   This landmark opened in 1989, making it the first legal brewery in Kansas in over 100 years.   It is located in the heart of downtown on Mass.   I’m a fan of the Stormchaser IPA, but nearly all of the beers are good.  Their motto is my motto as well:  “Because without beer, things do not seem to go as well.”  The brewery gives credit to this saying to a monk. If so, perhaps I will join the monastery some day.  

Not only does this 14-barrel brewhouse bottle some great beers, it also has food!   Back when I was in law school, the black bean quesadilla was my favorite, and I was glad to see that this dish was still (nearly 25 years later) still on the menu.  Why change perfection?   The only downside to Free State (especially during a pandemic) is that outdoor seating is very limited.

Enjoying a coffee stout at Lawrence Beer Co. (west)

One new kid on the brewery block is Lawrence Beer Company.  Opening in just 2017, LBC now has two locations:  one close to downtown (“north”) and one just of 15th Street and Wakarusa (“west”).  With one sip, it is easy to see why LBC quickly expanded.   I liked the Big Peach Saison and the East Side Session IPA in particular.   Both venues have ample outdoor seating.   And, both venues serve food.    Other thing that makes LBC amazing is their dog-themed logo.  Dogs and beer.   Perhaps two of my greatest loves in life! 

During our stay, we tried out the other breweries in Lawrence.   They are all good, and worth a stop if you have time. However, if you are in the area for a limited amount of time, my recommendation is that you try out Free State or LBC (north).

Bucket Lists (spoiler: It’s Basketball!)

A trip to Lawrence would not be complete without a trip to Allen Field House and the adjoining Booth Family Hall of Athletics  and DeBruce Center.   The venue highlights all current 18 KU athletic teams highlights traditions such as crimson and blue, cheerleading, and the marching band.  The focus, however, is basketball.   The inventor of the game, Dr. James Naismith, was KU’s first coach.   His original rules are housed at the facility, along with a museum that explores KU’s greatest athletes and NCAA championships (by coaches Phog Allen, Larry Brown, and Bill Self).   Lawrence is known as the “Cradle of Basketball” for good reason.

Posing before a Jayhawk at the KU Alumni Center

Because I attended undergrad at Kansas State University, I was taught to despise KSU’s in-state rival. However, by my 2L year at KU, I was already a convert.   The players during those early to mid-1990s were incredible.  Even though they never won the big one, the 1996-97 team is in my opinion the best ever – Jacque Vaughn, Paul Pierce, Raef LaFrentz, and Scott Pollard in particular.

My favorite KU basketball player is Lynette Woodard, who still is the all-time collegiate women’s basketball’s leading scorer (3,649 points).  I have vague memories of her playing on the 1984 Olympic gold medal team, but I remember very well her being a Harlem Globetrotter.  The idea that this woman was even playing with a bunch of guys was inspiring to me as a young girl. I can still remember trying to spin the basketball on my index finger for hours on end.  

(Unfortunately, my basketball “bucket” list will have to wait until next season since these venues were closed because of covid-19. )

As odd as this sounds, the other “bucket list” item to do in Lawrence is simply walk around downtown on Mass and some adjacent streets.   There are bookstores (Dusty Bookshelf), art galleries, gift shops, an  antique mall, clothing stores, hair salons, live music venues (The Granada, The Bottleneck), and a variety of pubs (Red Lyon) and restaurants (Papa Kenos, Free State Brewing).  The links I’ve included are all venues that were around 25+ years ago.  The nostalgia is incredible, and it is nice to see these institutions thriving for decades.  This is what every downtown in America should be.

 ***Fine Print:  My home town of Belleville will always be #1.   Thus, Lawrence is actually second best town in Kansas.