Hiking Angels Landing in Zion National Park is one of those “bucket list” items for a lot of people, including me.   I watched several YouTube videos and read dozens of blogs in preparing for the hike.   The hike itself didn’t disappoint, but I wish that I would have known more before I decided to do the hike.

Here’s nine steps and 12 tips for successfully hiking Angels Landing.

Fun Fact:  Angels Landing was earlier known as the Temple of Aeolus. In Greek mythology, Aeolus was the ruler of winds.

1.     Get Lucky:  The Permit Lottery

To hike to the summit of Angels Landing, hikers must first obtain a permit from the National Parks Service.  It wasn’t always this way. The Angels Landing permitting system was first implemented in 2022 as a pilot program.

There are few caveats about the Angels Landing permit worth mentioning. 

• First, the permit is only required for the “scary” Spine/Hogsback

  chained section to the summit (the last 0.5 miles).   You can hike the rest of the Angels Landing trail without a permit. 

• Second, many people try to hike to the Angels Landing summit without a permit.  We could hear several people openly talking about their decision to forego the permit during our hike.

• Third, hiking without a permit is punishable by a fine of up to $5,000 and/or six months in jail.  See 36 CFR 1.6 (permits); 36 CFR 1.3 (penalties).

So, how do you obtain an Angels Landing Permit? 

You must enter NPS permit lottery through recreation.gov. And, you’ve got to be LUCKY!

There are two types of permit lotteries. 

• Advance permit lottery.  For example, to hike in the summer months (June 1 to August 31), you must enter the lottery in April.  

• Day-before permit lottery.   That’s exactly what it sounds like.   On the day before you want to hike (NOT the day of your hike), you can enter that lottery.

Each lottery application costs $6/application (nonrefundable) and can over up to six people.  When you enter the permit lottery, you must also select either a “before 9 am” or “after 9 am” start time.  That start time is when hikers must be at the Grotto Trailhead (Shuttle Stop #6).  

What are the Odds of Getting a Permit to Hike Angels Landing?

The NPS does publish how people visit Zion each month.  However, so far, to my knowledge, the NPS has not published how many people are granted Angels Landing permits on any given day.  I’ve read that their target is to grant permits for around 800 hikers.  An NPS spokesperson also said that 200,000 people hiked Angels Landing in 2022.  By extrapolating that data, I estimated how many people might have permits on a given day.   Keep in mind that the weekends are likely to much busier than weekdays. 

If you are lucky enough to win the permit lottery, the NPS then charges the winner an additional $3/person for the permit. 

Kasie and I each entered the day-before lottery on a Sunday in June.   We figured that our odds would be better for a weekday (e.g., Monday hike).   I won and felt pretty lucky.   Overall, the permit process cost us $18 (two $6 permit lottery applications and two $3 permits). 

Many people are not that lucky though. One set of neighbors at our RV park entered the lottery daily for a week and did not receive a permit.

Fun Fact:  Frederick Vining Fisher, an Ogden resident and pastor of the First Methodist Episcopal Church of Ogden, named Angels Landing and two other Zion Canyon landmarks during a visit there in 1916.

2.     The Grotto: Where Dreams Take Flight

Once you get your permit, your epic escapade to Angels Landing commences at the Grotto (Stop #6).  We arrived just a few minutes after our 9:00 am start time.  At the trailhead, we could already start to feel the energy of eager hikers, fueled by a blend of anticipation and caffeine.   Yes, this was where my dream of hiking Angels Landing would begin to take flight!

Within a few yards, we encountered a park ranger who verified that we had a permit, verified my ID, and then checked us in for our hike.   Several other hikers strolled by the ranger without checking in though. It’s not clear to me why the ranger was stationed at the trailhead, instead of just before the Spine (Hogsback) chained section of the hike.    

3.     Don’t Discount the West Rim Trail:  It’s a Climb

While the Spine (Hogsback) is perhaps the most famous park of the Angels Landing hike, don’t be fooled by the rest of it.  

From the Grotto Trailhead, you start out slowly on the West Rim Trail along the Virgin River, but the grades soon start to increase.  About 1 mile into the hike, you’ll encounter a set of switchbacks where the grade reaches over 30% at times.

Take a moment to enjoy the views of the Virgin River and snap a few selfies of yourself panting.

Fun Fact:  There’s no apostrophe in Angels Landing.  Since 1890, U.S. Board on Geographic Names does not allow apostrophes in official names (with five exceptions).

4.      Cool off in Refrigerator Canyon (and Keep your Eyes Open)

As you venture further along the West Rim Trail, you will soon find solace in the cool embrace of Refrigerator Canyon. Because the canyon walls tower over you on both sides, this section of the trail is shaded nearly all of the time.  Comparatively, this part of the trail is relatively flat.  However, there are a few cool hidey-holes tucked into the canyon sides to explore. 

On our hike, the NPS had posted a few signs to ask visitors to be quiet because Mexican Spotted Owls, which are protected by the Endangered Species Act, live in the canyon.   We kept our eyes out for the owls, but didn’t see any.

5.     Curse & Bless Walter's Wiggles!

Prepare to channel your inner mountaineer as you ascend the famous Walters Wiggles. Named after Walter Ruesch, who was the first superintendent for Zion National Park, these 21 paved switchbacks were constructed in 1926.  I found myself blessing Mr. Ruesch for having the vision to create these switchbacks, but I also cursed the man a little as I made the climb.  The elevation gain on Walters Wiggles is only around 300 feet, but it feels like much more!  Trust me, you will embrace the challenge with each bend, relishing the rewards of both panoramic views and burning quads.

 Fun Fact:   The first recorded ascent of Angel's Landing was made in 1923 by a group of individuals led by Park Ranger Harold Russell.   Russell didn’t have the advantage of Walters Wiggles, which were built in 1926.

6.     Scout Lookout: Make a Decision

Right after Walter’s Wiggles, the pavement will end and you will encounter the perhaps the most mentally challenging part of your hike:  Scout Lookout.  Here, you can catch your breath and revel in the awe-inspiring vistas that unfold before you.   BUT, this vantage point offers a glimpse of the adventure that lies ahead.  YOU MUST NOW DECIDE WHETHER OR NOT TO HIKE TO THE SUMMIT OF ANGELS LANDING!

Importantly, it’s okay to turn around here. It’s okay to wait and watch your friends go on without you. It’s okay to just sit and revel in the view and not go further. You have to do what is right for you.

Scout Lookout is a decision point for other reasons as well.  By now, you’ve probably drank a lot of water on your hike, and you should probably decide whether you need to use the restroom since it is the only one on the trail. (The restrooms are reportedly pretty gross so we did not venture in them).

 Fun Fact:  The restrooms on Angels Landing must be emptied manually on “Helipoo Day.”  Yes, that’s right.  The NPS hires a waste removal company to haul the waste from Scout Lookout in 500-lb drum barrels.  The trail is closed on those days. 

At this point, you should also decide whether you want to have a snack.   If you do, you are likely to have several wood squirrels and rock squirrels attempt to join you. 

The last half-mile of the hike is known as The Spine or Hogsback (Hog’s Back).  While the assent is only about 500 feet, this is where you need to tighten those hiking shoes, embrace the challenge, and immerse yourself in the magic of Angel's Landing.

There are a couple of things to note about The Spine:

• You will need a permit. 

  There may or may not be a park ranger near the base of The Spine checking permits.  On the day we traversed it, there was no park ranger.

• You will be scared.  

  As you, you begin to traverse The Spine of Angel's Landing, adrenaline will start to course through your veins.  From a distance, parts of the trail look razor-thin.  It is.  The trail is probably around 2-3 feet across at some points with vertigo-inducing drop-offs.  HOWEVER, it helped me to think of how we drive 75 mph down highway with only a few feet between vehicles on a daily basis. 

• You will use the chains.  

  I don’t care how much experience you have hiking; you will need to grab on to the chains on portions of The Spine.  For inexperienced hikers like me, I really relied on the chains at the beginning of my hike, but then loosened my grip as I felt more comfortable with the climb. 

• You will see clear paths. 

• For the more dangerous parts of the climb, there are cutaways in the rock that help you know where to place each foot.   I just kept thinking “one-foot-in-front-of-the-other.”

• You will scramble. 

  Parts of the trail include lots of rock scrambling, but the path doesn’t vary much.   

• You will look down.  

  There’s no avoiding looking down.  Those sheer cliffs were daunting at first, but after a while, I started to embrace majesty of the mountain and enjoy the view. 

• You will feel crowded at times. 

  Even though the number of people hiking Angels Landing is limited, there will bottlenecks at times.   We would sometimes have to wait for 10 or more people to come down a section of The Spine before we felt we could start going up the same section.   On other occasions, a “down-hiker” would have to maneuver around an “up-hiker” holding on to the chains or vis versa.   For the most part, people were patient and respectful as they encountered each other. 

• You will develop relationships.

  Because it’s difficult to pass people on The Spine, you may be by a group of hikers much of the way to the summit.   You’ll probably bond with those folks over the challenge of hiking in some way.  Learn to love your neighbors.

• You will need a sense of humor.  

  Hikers on Angels Landing make all sorts of funny comments and jokes along the way.  “Are we there yet?” is a popular refrain.   “I thought there was an elevator here” was my favorite. 

Not-So-Fun Fact:   In the last 20 years, somewhere between 15-20 deaths have reportedly happened on the Angels Landing hike.

8.     The Summit: Celebrate a Triumph Beyond Compare

At long last, you will ascend to the summit of Angel's Landing—an achievement that demands celebration and reverence.  As you stand atop this majestic perch, it may feel like the world unfolds at your feet.   To get some perspective of just how high you’ve traveled, the shuttle buses appear smaller than Hot-Wheels.

And boy, talk about views. In one direction, you can look down upon Big Bend (Stop #8) and see the Virgin River snake around The Organ toward the Weeping Rock trailhead (Stop #7).  In another direction, you will see the Great White Throne looking down upon the Grotto trailhead (Stop #6) and an outline of the West Rim Trail that you have just traversed.  Still, in another direction, you can spy on the nervous hikers congregating at Scott Lookout and watch others going up the mountain ask themselves “are we there yet?” 

9. The Descent: Don’t underestimate it

Of course, what comes up must come down.   People honestly overlook this part of the 5.4-mile hike.  

While the climb down from Angels Landing is certainly easier on most people’s muscles, the drop-offs look even more menacing on the way down.  Parts of the trail are sandy, and at least for me, I found myself slipping on several occasions.  Some hikers turned around so that they were facing the summit and descended the mountain like they were climbing down a ladder. 

Not surprisingly, the descent is much quicker than the climb.   Our hike took 4.5 hours overall:  about 3 hours for the ascent and 1.5 hours for the return trip.   Of that time, our smartwatch told us that we were moving for only about 2.2 hours.    That’s A LOT OF DOWNTIME.   You can expect significant stopping and starting on the way to Angels Landing, whether for photos, to catch your breath, or to wait patiently as you make the climb up The Spine

TIPS FOR HIKING ANGELS LANDING

 If you’ve read this far, there’s a good chance you are actually going to hike to Angels Landing. Here’s also 12 tips for make your journey better.

1. Bring a GoPro

   You are going to want to take photos or videos on your hike to Angels Landing. However, you are going to need your hands to grab onto the chains and rock scramble on the trek up The Spine. Taking a selfie with your phone isn’t advisable. Moreover, it’s impolite to ask a bunch of hikers to wait while you get that perfect shot. I recommend strapping a GoPro to your chest or head and just film the entire hike from Scout Lookout to the summit. Many of my photos are stills from those videos.

2. Start early

   If you snag a “Before 9 am” permit, try to begin your hike as early as possible to beat the crowds and secure parking at the trailhead. Starting early also allows you to hike during the cooler part of the day.

3. Check weather conditions

   Prior to your hike, check the weather forecast for Zion National Park. Avoid hiking Angel's Landing during inclement weather or if there is a chance of thunderstorms.  No one wants to be climbing slippery rocks.

4. Wear appropriate footwear

   Choose sturdy hiking shoes or boots with good traction to navigate the rocky and steep terrain. Avoid open-toed shoes or sandals.

5. Bring grippy gloves

   In extremely cold or extremely hot temperatures, the chains on The Spine can be hard to hold onto.  A good set of gloves with grippers might help you hold onto the chains in those conditions.    

6. Bring plenty of water

   It's essential to stay hydrated during the hike to Angels Landing. Carry an ample supply of water, as there are no water sources along the trail. We recommend a hydration backpack so that you don’t have to mess with unscrewing a water bottle and your hands can stay free during the climb.

7. Use sunscreen and wear a hat

   Protect yourself from the sun's rays by applying sunscreen before the hike and wearing a hat to shield your face and neck.  It got windy near the summit so be sure and hold onto your hat as well. 

8. Pack snacks and food

   Bring energy-boosting snacks and/or a packed lunch to fuel yourself during the hike. It's important to maintain your energy levels throughout the challenging trail.

9. Take a break at Scout Lookout

   Scout Lookout provides an excellent resting point. Take breaks here to catch your breath, enjoy the views, and prepare mentally for the more challenging section ahead. (And don’t forget to use the potty…. if you have to)

10. Hike within your comfort level

    Angel's Landing is not recommended for individuals with a fear of heights or those who are not comfortable with exposed trails. Assess your hiking abilities and decide if this trail is suitable for you. IT’S OKAY TO TURN AROUND!

11. Leave no trace

    Follow the principles of Leave No Trace and respect the natural environment. Carry out all your trash and avoid damaging vegetation or disturbing wildlife.

12. Treat Yourself

Be sure and celebrate after your hike to Angels Landing. We headed to the Zion Brewing Brewpub in Springdale after our hike.

In the words of Tom Haverford: Treat Yo’ self!